Forlornly I gazed at my other dining companions’ starters. The Crispy Squid dunked in homemade smoky ketchup was satisfying. The Smoked Mackerel Paté looked as pretty as a picture and tasted the same. The Seared Scallops with Couscous was elegant and expertly cooked. And my dully presented Foie Gras and Chicken Liver Parfait? Tasteless. It...

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