Cabbage has become my favorite winter vegetable: It's earthy, filling and a bargain. I started making cabbage this way a few years ago. I got the idea from an Indian friend, who one holiday quickly sauteed cabbage in butter and black mustard seeds for a last-minute side dish. Here, I opt for slower cooking to yield more umami flavor and silkier results. Plus, the transformation of a heaping pile of raw shards into something manageable and yummy requires mindless attention. It's a good meditation, tending the cabbage as it melts. If you can't get to yoga, get out the butter and a sharp knife and try this.

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