I love authentic spinach pies, from sumac-sour Lebanese turnovers to savory Balkan burekas. But my favorite is this unabashedly cheesy-Anglo spin on spanikopita, which takes the traditional feta, phyllo and spinach, and features it all on a creamy background of cottage cheese and sharp fresh dill. The fresh spinach requires a bit of fuss (it's annoying to mix with the ingredients in its unreduced state, and gives off liquid that you've got to bind with egg and absorb with a bit of starch), but the fresh flavor is well worth it.

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