Bolognese to me is one of the best things you can make out of fresh tomatoes. It´s that little bit of chicken liver that makes this sauce special, just enough to catalyze the other flavors without making it all taste like giblets. As of the duck, I like to use aiguilettes de canard, stripes of meat adjacent to the breast, as they are very easy to handle: Just chop finely with a sharp knife. Duck thighs work fine with this recipe, too, but it´s a little more work to get the meat off the bones first.

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