Salade Nicoise makes a delicious picnic meal, with starchy potatoes, crunchy green beans, sweet tomatoes, and tuna, anchovies, and eggs melded together in a single satisfying dish. But I object to it being too mixed up before serving. I prepare two separate components: the potatoes and green beans with a mustardy dressing and hard boiled eggs layered on top, and tuna with tomatoes and a lemony, herby dressing with anchovies layered on top. Pack these with some lettuce greens, a loaf of bread, and a bottle of chilled white wine, and you have a delicious picnic meal that you can assemble on your plate.

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