Election cake, late eighteenth century
Cakes
Adapted from I Hear America Cooking by Betty Fussell and American Cookery by Amelia Simmons.
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<br />The very first cookbook authored by an American was published in 1796 in Hartford, Connecticut. Little is known about the book’s author, Amelia Simmons, who called herself an “American Orphan” on the book’s title page, but the work she created went on to be re-printed—and plagiarized—for decades.
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<br />The second edition of Amelia’s book, published in 1800, contained a recipe not found in the original: Election Cake. Like all cakes of the time, it was meant to feed dozens of people and called for, among other things, 14 pounds of sugar, 3 dozen eggs, 10 pounds of butter, and 30 quarts of flour. This type of cake went by many names back then, including Great Cake, Loaf Cake, and Pretty Cake, and was typically leavened with the liquid substance that remains after beer-brewing (called ale barm or emptins). Flavors such as rosewater and brandy, as well as spices like nutmeg, cinnamon, and mace, were common, as were additions like nuts and dried fruits.
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<br />As for the name of this confection, some claim that the recipe originated in Hartford, Connecticut, a center for political action in early American; another popular theory is that it was simply an update of Muster Cake, slices of which were served to soldiers who ventured to large towns for military training days. What all historians agree on is that the cake was baked and served to the men who traveled into town center in order to participate in an election. Because of that, it holds the distinction of being the first American food to be associated with politics.
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<br />Election Cake fell out of popular favor in the early-mid-nineteenth century, which is a shame, as it’s rather lovely, keeps well, and is splendid toasted and smeared with salty butter.
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