Grill

One night during a vacation in Japan, following the recommendation of a friend, we wound through Tokyo’s dark alleys in pursuit of a farm to table, seafood-driven restaurant. Its omakase, or chef’s choice, menu was an adventure given our complete incomprehension of the Japanese language and the restaurant staff’s non-existent English. Tipsy on plum wine, we dove in to each delicate dish with a restraint matching the chef’s deft work behind the bar with sharp knives and tiny tweezers. <br /> <br />The heartiest dish, and one I’ve since recreated in many guises, featured a firm, mild white fish fillet baked in parchment paper with a heady compote of miso, mirin, leeks, and halved figs. The combination of miso, leeks, and fruit, steamed into a compote of sorts, was a revelation. Figs may be a seasonal specialty, but this compote is equally delightful – and hits the same notes of sweet, salty, and tangy – with other fruits like persimmons, pears, and stone fruit. For spring and summer meals, I prefer to grill the fish and top it with the compote, a splash of rice vinegar further lightening the dish for the warm months ahead.

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