I’ve been on a mission for months to recreate the tender, light, seriously crispy breads we found in Italy. I’ll spare you the list of failures. It’s long. You’re welcome. I finally vectored in a formula predicated on my focaccia, which has some tenderness because of using a portion of all-purpose flour, some milk, and God knows, olive oil. Focaccia’s great structure and flavor also benefit from a preferment, as well as from being retarded overnight in the refrigerator. So I incorporated those qualities, with a more judicious amount of olive oil, into what I wanted to be more of an all-purpose true loaf. I’m finally pretty happy with it.

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