“If you close your eyes and you’ve never had it and you take a bite," White says. "You’d think it’s the greatest thing you’ve ever tasted.” Steaming means that the lobster cooks in its own salty-sweet juices, rather than letting boiling water in to dilute them. Steaming is also a slightly slower, gentler, and more forgiving method—if you leave the lobsters in the steamer an extra minute, they won’t overcook. Anything you add from there shouldn't overpower the lobster, just act as a subtle complement. If you make the tarragon mayonnaise, it shouldn’t taste like tarragon, White says. “It should just be a whisper.” Adapted slightly from <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Lobster-at-Home-Jasper-White/dp/0684800772?tag=food52-20"><strong>Lobster at Home</strong></a> (Scribner, 1998).

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