Traditionally the leeks were cooked in a big pot of boiling water. However, it’s better to steam them, which prevents them from getting waterlogged. Smaller leeks, which appear in the springtime in Paris markets, are preferable for this dish because they’re quite tender, although larger leeks are just fine, too. Just make sure that you clean the leeks very well, and cook them until they’re completely soft all the way through. <br /> <br />When Romain and I made this together and we plated up the leeks, I got an unexpected lesson in the art of arranging the poireaux: I learned that it’s imperative you lay them with the queue (tail) alternating with the tête (head). So I recommend you follow those instructions, if you want don’t want to raise any Parisian eyebrows.

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