I thought my way down through the layers of this dish, considering flavors that would balance each other well. I certainly wanted to feature the richness of maple syrup, and without it being overbearing. The slight saltiness of one of my favorite cheeses, Brie with veins of bleu cheese shot through its creaminess, seemed like it might a perfect melty filling. Sweet potatoes were a natural vehicle for them all, given their bright color and natural tinge of sweetness. And even though days are bright and warm, evenings still cool rapidly - good weather for a deep gratin.

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