You've got a bundle of celery in the back of your crisper drawer. (Go check. You do.) This is what you should do with it. Stick it in a bath with olive oil, tomato, pancetta, and onion, then stand back. Serve it with a juicy roast chicken, lamb, or veal chops. Polenta or farro. A fried egg with very crisp edges. Bread. Or just nothing. Adapted slightly from <strong><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Essentials-Classic-Italian-Cooking-Marcella/dp/039458404X/?tag=food52-20">Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking</a></strong> (Alfred Knopf, 1992)

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