Once, during my stint on register for Pies 'N' Thighs in Brooklyn, New York, a cook named Nadine put out a small bowl at family meal: apples, red onion, parsley, and toasted pepitas. Family meal was often a time of existential exhaustion, but this combination of food still wakes me up. <br /> <br />I love this salad. It's flexible. I used to omit the olive oil so I could revel in the shocking, sweet water crunch, and think about the nuttiness of cabbage.

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