New manhattan clam chowder
Cocktails
Armenian cuisine

My extended family reunites in the same nook of Long Beach Island, New Jersey every summer—a tradition decades older than I am. We mostly drink wine on the beach but every so often we bike to Bay Village, a waterfront gaggle of restaurants and shops, for sustenance. Peanut butter fudge. Taylor-egg-and-cheese sandwiches. Clam chowder in bread bowls. Battle of the chowders—New England versus Manhattan (even versus Rhode Island, a lesser known, clearer broth)—implies ironclad loyalties. But in a place where most people are on vacation, anything goes. At our favorite chowder hut, Country Kettle Chowda, you can get New England or Manhattan or, if you can’t pick, “Rhode Island Red,” where they ladle half New England, half Manhattan, into your bowl. Blushing pink like a sunburn. Giddily breaking all the rules. Some restaurants in Long Island claim this as “Long Island Clam Chowder.” And I suppose it wouldn’t be chowder if we were all on the same page. <br /> <br />A few recipe notes: I used littleneck clams but use whatever your seafood monger says is freshest. Cherrystone are similar in size. Quahog are affectionately called “chowder clams”—very large and sometimes tough, so be mindful of overcooking. I used a 4-quart, high-sided sauté pan. Whichever vessel you pick, make sure it has a wide diameter so the bacon and vegetables can spread out and have a good time. <br />
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