Paperino v pierino; duck ragu and pappardelle, the thrilla in l’aquila
Pies
I love rustic Italian ragùs made with game. Much of the time I’ve spent in Italy has been in woodsy locales in Umbria and Tuscany, awakening to the sound of gun shots as hunters blasted away at stuff running through the fields or flying in the air. For some reason waterfowl seldom seemed to be involved despite Italy’s many lakes. In researching duck recipes (anatra or papera) most I looked at came from either the Veneto (and had more in common with France) or from the Abruzzo. My recipe is I think closer to the latter style, although I use many of the same elements I would for an Umbrian ragù. <br /> <br />Most such ragùs use olive oil. But, because when buying duck breasts, I’ve found that the weight is about half skin and fat, as a frugal cook I like to incorporate both rather than waste them. But care needs to be taken in rendering the fat. <br /> <br />“Paperino” is “Donald Duck” in Italy in case you care. <br />
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