This is based on a dish of penne, tomato, cream, and Swiss cheese I had when I was a student in Fiesole many years ago. My recipe gets an assist from Marcella Hazan, whose Tomato Sauce with Onion and Butter is incorporated herein. Eliminate the penne, tweak the amounts of dairy, and play around with the proportion of leeks to fennel, and you've probably got the makings of a pretty good gratin as well.

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