Ramp season is never long enough. The way to maximize it is to use the green tops for sautes and omelets and the like, and to save the crisp white bottoms for flash pickling. If you haven't done much pickling, don't despair: it could not be easier. You give the cloud-white stems a quick swim in boiling salted water to blanch them. Then douse the ramp bottoms with a simple pickling mixture (I like red wine vinegar, thyme, fresh ginger, fennel seeds and a dried red chile). Done! Your dinner party charcuterie platter awaits its garnish.
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