From a distance, this fruit crisp looks like any other. Sweet, saucy baked fruit with a buttery, crumbly streusel on top. But if you look—and smell—closer, you’ll pick up on a big difference: toasted oats. Just like toasted nuts, this little step yields roasty, caramely, complex flavor. (If you want, you can toast them in advance and store them in an airtight container.) While this recipe calls for plums, feel free to swap in your favorite stone fruit: peaches, nectarines, apricots, you name it. Like with fruit pie, you’ll want this to cool for a little while before serving. It’s great warm, with ice cream or whipped cream or crème fraîche or straight-up cream. It’s also great room temperature and even cold, eaten straight out of the fridge in the middle of the night.

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