Making membrillo is like making bread or soufflé or caramels — when it works, you’re hooked, the dramatic transformation inspiring you to experiment more. When cooked, the flesh of the quince transforms from white to a glorious rose and the once astringent taste becomes sweet and floral. There is nothing tricky about making membrillo — it just takes patience: the quince first simmer for an hour-and-a-half, then cook down with sugar for another hour. Membrillo keeps for months and is such a treat to have on hand this time of year to serve on cheese plates for impromptu gatherings and to give to friends paired with small wedges of various cheeses for holiday gifts.

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