This recipe came about as a simple preparation for fresh ramps. Forget about sautéing them. Here, the salty-garlicky, smokey-tangy flavors complement each other in a quick but satisfying preparation. Tart yogurt contrasts with the sweet strength of ramps, while the saline salmon binds it all together, heightening the mix of flavors. Serve with crusty buttered sourdough and sliced cucumbers dressed with white wine-vinegar, oil and dill, and you've got the best of all possible worlds.

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