Garlicky pungent yet delicate ramps, or wild leeks, are one of the first edible greens available each spring, and their appearance is hungrily welcomed by those of us anxious for seasonal fare. There are curmudgeons among us who roll their eyes and grumble, “It is just an onion.” Determined to spoil our fun, these anti-leekers dismiss the beloved ramp as nothing to get all excited about. But we ramp enthusiasts know better. <br /> <br />Ramps resemble green onions or scallions, though their tops are leafy and wide. Raw, pickled, grilled, or added to stir-fry, they are a fresh substitute for everyday onions. The window of opportunity for finding and using ramps is less than a month, so I prefer recipes that encourage their unique piquant to shine.

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