First, a confession: I used to hate scrambled eggs. They reminded me of sulfur-infused cardboard. Or insulation. Years later, I learned how to make creamy, soft scrambled eggs, and now I crave them regularly. <br /> <br />Good, free-range eggs are paramount to this recipe, for both taste and safety reasons, and they require very little embellishment: I add a small lump of mascarpone or creme fraiche, a dribble of cream, or whatever is around (not milk, which makes them tough), a dash of salt and pepper and nothing else. But I do believe that excellent scrambled eggs need to be cooked in butter -- even in a non-stick pan -- and while we're on the subject, salted butter is my preference. The recipe makes enough for two people, but I usually get it all to myself, as I'm married to someone who is egg averse -- what's more, leftovers can be gently reheated in the microwave, and they still won't remind you of cardboard!

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