I discovered leeks in Paris, and I instantly fell in love with this elegant green vegetable. The first few times I cooked with leeks, I used the whole stalk (and it tasted fine to me!), but as time went on I learned to search for the long, slender white stems that make for the best flavor (and started discarding the rougher dark green tops). My favorite way to eat leeks is still in a savory tart. I tenderize mounds of the chopped veg in a little butter, and pile so many leeks atop the crust that there’s barely room to add the egg and dairy binding agents. But for this occasion, I wanted to think outside the box. So my humble offering is a spin on another of my favorite foods: noodle kugel. This mildly sweet noodle dish plays on the flavors and textures of your typical kugel, but adds a savory element that renders it suitable at almost any meal. If you test it out, be sure to tell me your thoughts! (carlydefilippo.com@gmail.com)

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