This may infringe copyrights, but posting this recipe is a huge shoutout and celebration of tuna a la David Pasternack in his Esca cookbook, "The Young Man And the Sea." He says, rightly, that seared tuna is nice but doesn't quite have the flavor it could. So he recommends a refined return to childhood with his tuna quickly poached in good olive oil. Great for summer. Keeps in the fridge. Turns a salad into an awesome meal that even kids will eat. His recipe, "Ventresca Tuna Salad," is a whole dish. I will just repeat the very easy tuna-making part.

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