A basic tomato sauce is essential for any given weeknight. I decided to take Marcella Hazan's Tomato Sauce with Onion and Butter off-roading and make it a little more Southern. My tomatoes aren't quite ready this year. I used canned which were a bit bitter, so I tossed in a pinch of sugar. I swapped the onions for shallots, added a bay leaf (because, always...), and made a paste of the butter with flour to thicken the sauce evenly. The flavors turned out exactly as I wanted, resulting in a rich sauce that maintains its quick, go-to status.

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