Being a Jewish Chicana, I've never had a nonna but, if I had, I'd like to think this is the cake she would have made to welcome my gluten-intolerant husband into the family. It's essentially a Sicilian cheesecake, made with fresh ricotta and hazelnut flour, and of course a little lemon zest. Its humble looks belie a wonderfully tender crumb and sophisticated, not-too-sweet flavor.

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