Reprinted with permission from Mark Bittman's <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Dinner-Everyone-Ways-Easy-Perfect-Company/dp/0385344767?tag=food52-20">Dinner for Everyone</a>. As for riffing, Bittman says, "The lesson in the Vietnamese Bean Thread salad is to use cooking liquid as a way to build flavor. Whether you decide to cook squid instead of shrimp or pork instead of chicken, you’re going to end up with beautifully seasoned bean threads, before you even dress them."

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